(cue Sweet Home Alabama by Lynryd Skynyrd….”Turn it up!”)
Julie and I love Birmingham, Alabama. It’s where we went to law school. We left this great city after graduation and within a year, we were on our way to birthin’ the first of our three babies. Now, we visit the city with kids in tow. It’s still fun.
So, how would we know about the “real” ….”underground”….Birmingham if we were in law school while we lived there? Weren’t we supposed to be up to our eyeballs in caselaw and writing memorandum of law? That may be true, but that didn’t keep us from exploring every nook and cranny of the city. There’s a reason one of us kept an impressive C+ average, thank you very much.
Because of our love of Birmingham, we visit the city now and then with our little ones. Birmingham is VERY kid friendly!!!!! We’ve even found that some of the most fun places to visit are FREE. Many of the things we list are activities that may not be listed in some “activity guide.” Let me say now…that you won’t read ANYTHING about a chain restaurant or a chain store in this blog post….not if I can totally help it. No matter what city you live in, you can always eat at Chili’s, Applebee’s or a Burger King. You can buy a book at a Barnes & Noble, buy coffee from a Starbucks, and get a sweater from the Banana Republic. Who wants to do that while visiting another city? Not me. These are places we like. So, if you’ve been here and don’t like them….sorry. If all this sounds peachy to you, read on….
Here goes (in no particular order):
1. The Birmingham Botanical Gardens, 2612 Lane Park Road, Birmingham, AL 35223-1802, (205) 414-3920.
The Botanical Gardens are FREE!!!!!! You heard me. Yes, parking and admission are F-R-E-E. The gardens are simply breath taking. It is a great place to take photographs, enjoy nature…and let your kids run around screaming like banshees. The Ireland Rose Garden is my all time favorite place in the gardens. Take a map and suggest to your kids that the family go on an impromptu scavenger hunt. They can find a rose, a hosta, a butterfly, a dragonfly, etc. Nature is good.
(Caveat: At this point, let me say that I will not mention the zoo. Everyone mentions the zoo. Go ahead and send me a nasty email. I don’t care. The Birmingham Zoo is great. Don’t get me wrong, but we live in a city that has one of the top zoos in the country. We even have a family membership to our own zoo, but how many times can you really visit a zoo? If you are one of those families, then knock yourself out and go to the zoo. I’m just sayin’….)
2. Cumberland School of Law, 800 Lakeshore Drive, Birmingham, AL 35229
Samford University (and Cumberland School of Law) doesn’t seem like a likely place to visit? Think again. The campus is one of the prettiest places in Birmingham. Plus, it’s never too early to get your kids thinking about a career in the legal profession. Right? The entire campus is hilly and our boys like to roll down the hills outside of the library. You can stick your feet in the sparkling fountains (only if you are a child and not a current student. We were told that if you are a student and splash in a fountain you will get a Values Violation. Hmmmm). If you or your kids need a little snack, head on in the student union and grab some sustenance. If it’s the fall, plan ahead and go to a Samford Bulldogs football game. Samford isn’t so big that you’ll wish you had your kids on one of those “child harnesses” (let’s face it, it’s a kid leash) just to keep up with them. It’s a nice place and the fans are tame (think of little ears sensitive to lewd comments about the ref). It’s not like The Grove at Ole Miss which is a ginormous sea of fans. Think football fun on a smaller scale. Samford also has a planetarium, which may be open to the public. I’ll have to check that out the next time we’re in town.
3. Five Points South, Downtown Birmingham, Alabama
Birmingham’s downtown “Five Points” district was once a little scary…even during the daylight hours. When we visited 5Pts. this past summer, it felt different. Dare I say, safer? I lived smack dab in the middle of 5Pts. when I was in law school and loved the hustle and bustle of the city and the feel of urban life. Within the hub of 5Pts are some of my most favorite places:
The Original Pancake House, 1931 11th Avenue South
Birmingham, AL 35205-2603
(205) 933-8837
Pancake and French Toast Lovers...BEWARE! The OPH is addictive!
Want the MOST fabulous french toast….EVER? Get it here. Awesome Pancakes? Here. Want thick sliced bacon with fresh squeezed orange juice? Here. Fabulous scrambled eggs? Here. Omelets, Crepes, Dutch Baby, and the list goes on and on and on and on. There’s no kid’s menu, but it is more economical to buy a plate of food and let your children split it. The wait staff will suggest that you do this. Wonderful food & great service!
Half-eaten french toast...smothered in butter and warm syrup....about to become devoured.
Golden Temple Health Foods and Cafe, 1901 11th Ave. South, Birmingham, AL 35205
Great to pick up some naan and Dr. Bronner's natural soap...and anything tie dye.
OK, your children may not totally dig this place. I liked it when I lived here sans children and I like it now. I’m a vegetarian (for the most part) and the cafe menu caters to the vegetarian. The health food store is very “hippy dippy” and I love buying Dr. Bronner’s soap from here…buying a tie dye skirt if I’m so inclined. The boys found an “all natural, humane” pest control device that they wanted to buy. It was a “mouse trap”…as in you catch the live mouse and let him go…outside your house. We did not buy this contraption. My husband looked like he wanted to bolt the entire time we were in here. The boys thought the store/cafe’s patchouli incense did not smell very good. In fact, they began to sing the lyrics of “The Grinch”…..”Stink! Stank! Stunk!” Oh, well. It is kinda fun to buy some authentic tie dye or some freaky sitar music to threaten them with while traveling in the minivan. Just a thought.
4. Mountain Brook, Alabama
Mountain Brook is an affluent neighborhood in Birmingham. Mountain Brook and Birmingham are two entirely different places. In fact, don’t ever make the mistake of calling someone who lives in Mountain Brook a “Birminghamian.” No, ma’am. Mountain Brook has it’s own school district, grocery stores, restaurants, etc.
It is also a very nice place for families…..
Gilchrist’s Old Fashioned Soda Fountain, 2805 Cahaba Rd.
Mountain Brook, AL 35223
Go in for a limeade. You WILL NOT be disappointed.
Here you will find the best sandwiches (pimento cheese, chicken salad, egg salad, club, BLT). The limeade is made from freshly squeezed limes. This is truly an old fashioned soda shop with the best malts/shakes in the world. I’m not exaggerating. When my husband and I took our three boys into Gilchrist’s, we were actually waited on by the same waitress who used to take our orders in law school. She recognized me and we ended up chatting for a while. It’s a family run business and before you know it, you’ll be on a first-name basis with everyone behind the counter. The decor is still very mid-century “drug store.” We love it.
Mountain Brook Nature Trail
The boys get all sweaty after hiking "the trail" in Mountain Brook.
Mountain Brook has a great walking/running/biking trail that runs alongside Cahaba Road, parallel to Mountain Brook’s upscale neighborhoods. The trail is mostly wooded with a small creek to cross (or go around). There is a new trail created by an Eagle Scout with labeled trees and a sign warning you of snakes (we didn’t see any, but it intrigued the boys). We like to hike/walk out in nature as a family. This trail is perfect for the whole family. Ride your bike. Just dilly-dally. It’s fun and the fresh air will do you good.
Jim Davenport’s Pizza Palace, 2837 Cahaba Road
Birmingham, AL 35223-2322, www.davenportspizza.com/
Davenport's Pizza.....yummmmmmmmmmm
Davenport’s Pizza is some of the best pizza I’ve ever eaten. We are a “pizza loving family.” We refer to delivery pizza as “junk pizza.” Call us snobs, if you must. We don’t care. Julie and I went to Davenport’s on many occasions during law school. My husband and I took the boys to Davenport’s after a really long car ride back from South Carolina and it was the perfect place to crash for an hour or so…and eat! The decor is not fancy, but there is candlelight on all the tables. We chose to eat in the room with the wall of video games, for obvious reasons. Our boys were busy playing games. so my husband and I could just talk or stare out into space. If you want to go there sans kids, then fine. It’s still a good pizza joint to hang out in.
Mary Charles’ Doll House, 2820 Petticoat Lane
Mountain Brook, AL 35223-2320, www.marycharlesdollhouse.com
The Doll House on Petticoat Lane....seriously.
Mary Charles’ Doll House is worth visiting. It doesn’t matter if you have a bunch of boys or if you have little girls. This little shop on Petticoat Lane (and I’m not making this up) has everything you need to build and furnish an elaborate dollhouse. MCDH also carries Madame Alexander dolls and other collectible brands. Of course, they have doll furniture, doll clothes, doll accessories and provide the community with a “doll hospital.” I love it. I bet you will, too.
Mountain Brook Creamery, 2715 Cahaba Road
Mountain Brook, AL 35223-2303
Another fab place for ice-cream! Our boys loved it….and the red, white and blue ice-cream we scarfed down before the Fourthof July fireworks. It is right around the corner from Papagallo, Gilchrist’s and Harrison, Ltd. (just THE best men’s clothier around with a swell cache of bowties).
5. Homewood, Alabama
At this point, you are probably wondering if we will ever venture out to Hoover where the Galleria is located. The answer is “nope.” So, on with things….
Homewood Toy and Hobby Shop, 2830 18th Street South
Homewood, AL 35209-2586
Check out the model trains at Homewood Toy and Hobby Store!
This toy and hobby store has the best selection of quality toys that I’ve ever seen. By quality, I mean nice wood and reproduction toys, as well as classic toys that will last longer than five minutes of play time. If you like model trains and toys of all kinds, you’ll love this place…and so will your children!
The Little Professor Books and Crepe Myrtle Cafe, 2717 18th Street South Homewood, AL 35209, www.littleprofessor.com/homewood/
Great bookstore and cafe in the heart of Homewood.
The Little Professor is a gem of a bookstore. You won’t see rows and rows of books like at some of the “big box chain bookstores.” However, you will see great authors represented and even books by local/regional authors. The LP has artsy cards and gifts, too. Most of all, our children love the children’s book section. The children’s section is not sterile and “too staged.” There are several comfortable chairs and a sofa nearby for Mommy or Daddy to read a good book to the little ones. Everything is accessible to the child reader. We like this. A. Lot. We also like the wonderful food being served at the Crepe Myrtle cafe. Your children can get something wholesome to eat and you can dine on a salad of field greens with a piece of grilled salmon and a side of fresh fruit. Sound good? Better than Micky D’s.
Homewood Barber Shop, 2724 18th Street South
Birmingham, AL 35209-1904
Shave and a haircut....less than twenty bucks.
Do your guys need a haircut? In a hurry? Then waltz into the little white shack right across the street from the Little Professor. Butch, Howard or George (a fine name, if I say so, myself) can hook you up with a cut. It’s old school and that’s why we like it so much. It’s just a little shack with three barber chairs. Your husband and boys just wait their turn and Voila!…it’s assembly line cutting. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you won’t get a quality cut. My husband got his hair cut by Butch while in law school and he still claims it is the best cut he’s ever gotten. We graduated in 2002. This summer….eight years later….we walk into the Homewood Barber Shop so that my husband and three boys could get a much needed haircut. Guess what? Butch was still there….and remembered my husband. It was great to see all three of my boys all lined up getting their hair cut at the barber shop. Nostalgia, folks. Pure nostalgia.
Savage’s Bakery, 2916 18th Street South
Birmingham, AL 35209-2512
It's OK to go into Savage's just to get a good whiff...
Savage’s Bakery. ((sigh)) What’s not to love? Just go in and take a deep breath. It smells like frosting. I love that smell. There are so many yummy things, but I would definitely get a cream cheese roll thingy. I’m not sure what they are called, but they’ll know if you say, “cream cheese roll thingy.” If not, fake it so that they’ll let you sample things until you “find” what you want. Just an idea.
Jack n’ Jill Shop, 2918 18th Street South
Homewood, AL 35209-2512
Jack n' Jill has been around forevah!
I didn’t have children when I went to law school, so I didn’t fully appreciate this establishment when I lived in Birmingham. Now, that I have three little boys, I “get it.” Jack n’ Jill have all of the quality brands that you love….if you don’t want to dress your son like a biker or your daughter like a skank. If you lean toward monogramming, smocking, applique and jon-jon’s for boys, you’ll love Jack n’ Jill. If not, I suggest you go to Baby Gap…I bet they have one at the Galleria.
6. Pepper Place Saturday Market, 2829 2nd Avenue South
Birmingham, Alabama 35233, http://www.pepperplacemarket.com/
This isn't your typical farmer's market...
You and your children will love downtown Birmingham’s take on a farmer’s market. Underneath a myriad of tents, you can find plenty of locally grown produce, wines, cheeses, bread, plants, etc. At scheduled times throughout the morning, there will be demonstrations to watch by the city’s finest chefs. My boys love to watch cooking demonstrations….who doesn’t? Just make sure you get down there no earlier than seven in the morning and remember that it closes at noon. This ain’t your grandmother’s farmer’s market. It is swell…
7. McWane Science Center, 200 19th Street North
Birmingham, AL 35203-3117, www.mcwane.org/
Enough hands-on activities to keep your kids WAY busy...
We like science museums. My boys think they are “way cool.” The McWane Science Center is right up their alley. It has four floors (yes, I said four floors) of hands-on science! They have an IMAX movie theater, also. There is always some neat theme they have going on. If we lived in Birmingham, we’d NEED a family membership. Seriously. I’m so not joking.
There are so many great places in Birmingham, that I could not possibly list them all. Remember, this town has to be great or Southern Living (the magazine for those of you who don’t know…or live under a rock) wouldn’t be based out of here, and just a stone’s throw from Samford University. No joke, folks. This is just a sampling of what Birmingham has to offer for families. It’s awesome!
Note: Go here WITHOUT children in tow……
1. Zoe’s Consignment and Vintage Clothing: http://www.zoeshop.com/ (You may find a vintage Chanel suit or a really beautiful pair of snake skin pumps…Manolo Blahniks? You might. I did find a gorgeous pale pink 50’s cashmere sweater set one time and wore it out. It’s a fun place to spend an hour or so. Go by yourself or witha good friend and treat it as a treasure hunt.)
2. Nabeel’s Cafe and Market, http://www.nabeels.com/ ( in Homewood. We’re not saying that Nabeel’s is not a family place. It is. We just think it’s much more fun to spend two or three hours here eating and talking. It is truly our most favorite place in Birmingham for Mediterranean cuisine. Start off your night with some stuffed grape leaves then order a real Greek Salad. The Shrimp Aegean is out of this world. We simply can’t say enough about the menu. The market is also fantabulous. Drop in and get some baklava!
3. Chez Lulu http://www.chezlulu.us/(in English Village….This bohemian dinner hotspot is too cool. GO! Anything is good and that’s hard to say about most places. Plus, after a while you’ll forget you’re in Birmingham and will begin to think you are eating in some quaint little place outside Paris or Barcelona.)
Chez Lulu (and Continental Bakery, which is a part of the Chez Lulu experience. A MUST)
4. Levy’s Jewelers http://www.levysfinejewelry.com/(go here with your husband to buy that antique platinum ring set with a 2.75 ct. diamond that you’ve always wanted….or any other piece of estate jewelry. Tasty stuff, but this outing will cause your husband to break out in hives or a cold sweat.)
{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
Loved your tour. Will forward to our daughter Katie who is still a B’Ham resident since going to Samford. I am sure she has been to all of your favorite places.
This post took.some. time. looking forward to the next time we’re zooming through b’ham – It’s prompted me to slow down and check out some of your haunts! Also – LOVED the shirtless boys on the trail – that’s an ala bain pic!
Oh,my! You brought back memories. I graduated undergrad in 2002 from BSC…that OTHER school in B’ham. But you totally pegged my favorite places! I practically lived at the Botanical Gardens and in Little Professor. Oh and Nabeel’s? One of my sorority sisters’ family owns the place. We often had things catered….mmmmmm. I would add one…the Purple Onion. Yeah, it’s college fare and open all night, but you can’t get it anywhere else. I guess kids might like it. It has fries.
Oh, and if you’re up for some good ole’ Southern fried buffet home cookin’ I’d recommend Niki’s West (take Arkadephia north of the city). Best fried chickin’ anywhere.
I just took our boys to McWane a few weeks ago. ENTHRALLED is how I would describe them. Can’t beat A/C and adventure in the summer.
If I had the opportunity to live in B’ham again, I’d do it in a heartbeat. Atlanta is just TOO BIG for me.
Allison, thanks for the comments! Come back!